I’m surprised there wasn’t any comparison to the Kel Tec Sub2000, which is VERY similar

Clean the chamber especially well

The Kel Tec Sub2K doesn’t feature easily changed calibers, but it folds into a smaller, more efficient package. Price is similar, and also takes Glock mags.

It is MILES ahead of the sub2000 in craftsmanship and performance (I have on in 9mm)

Actually, you could just about purchase two SUB-2000s (one in 9mm and one in .40 S&W) for the price of one complete Aero survival rifle in one caliber and a barrel in another caliber.

Sub2k, though, kinda sucks for bigger/teller folks; at least it did for me; I could not get a sight picture on its irons because it just wasn’t tall enough. Perhaps with a bit of afterple by getting one of those rotating foregrips and either a long eye relief or red-dot sight), but stock I’d take a crappy trigger (which the Sub2K has as well) over a gun I couldn’t even get a sight picture with. I was also shocked by how snappy firing the Sub2k felt, but that may have been because I was holding the barest bottom part of the butt to the very topmost bit of my should in desperate hope of getting something like a sight picture.

I have the ASR in 10mm. I work in L.E. and carry it instead of an AR…..I put an EOTech sight on mine and hit 2-3 inch groups at 125 yards…..I have fired around 500 – 600 rounds so far…It is my favorite “patrol” carbine. The trigger does need an upgrade and I am going to work on that next.

i Had my 10mm aero shipped with the match trigger installed. there’s no creep or over travel – just lay your finger and it goes off at 2 lbs & 15 ounces. It’s better than my Z5 and better than the M I carried.

What tinkering did you do to get it running reliably? I have an older model I

bought used that doesn’t usually get through a mag without a jam.

Just more lube and putting rounds downrange until she broke in. I could make an analogy but I will leave it at that. The tinkering was mainly a reference to adjusting the allen screw that adds tension to the barrel ratchet.

Also, install the match trigger, polish the feed ramp and the other parts that move against each other, use one type of bullet and weight, adjust the buffer spring and make sure the charging handle does not does not hit the end of it’s channel ( put a bit of modeling clay in the rear of the charging channel and fire the rifle – it will tell you if the charging handle is bottoming out.

There isn’t a whole lot that can go wrong on a blowback carbine, once it is broken in (500 rounds est.). Obviously start with a clean, well lubed gun. Swapping out ammo would be the next thing to try – alternate between hotter loads and mild pressure loads to see if the gun prefers one over the other. After that, the next culprit is typically magazines. Besides damaged feed lips, there is sometimes an issue of how the mag presents the round to the gun: If it is too low or not at the right angle, feeding problems can occur. Magazine springs are also a common source of problems. After that, I would start looking at extractor and spring replacement.

Totally disassemble the rifle, clean everything with break cleaner, polish the feed ramps and inside of the barrel, clean the firing pin channel. 600 grit on the buffer and bolt, then buff it and just about everything else, Keramik coat the bolt & buffer, inside the barrel & feed ramps, but not the chamber, adjust the buffer tube to insure proper buffer travel and coat the bolt and buffer with slide glide. Make up some dummy rounds to get the best OAL and install the TNW match trigger.